Monster Fishing, Ao Nang, Thailand

When entrepreneur Stuart Gillham needs toholiday. We have 60 fishing rods here and, if
explain the location of his Amper Muang fishingneeds be, we'll put the lot out.
resort, he says: "near the dirt mound and theSimon: How rare are araipama?
building site". If that makes you suspect that theStuart: They're very, very rare in most of the
resort itself might be a bit of a tip, understandwild. They were brought to Thailand probably 20
that, consciously or otherwise, Gillham is followingyears ago for the aquarium trade. They grew too
the business adage that says: "underpromise andbig for the aquaria. The Thais took them out and
overdeliver".threw them in ponds. Thailand just totally suits
The 53-year-old's baby is a dazzling,them. They are becoming extinct in Brazil but are
impeccably-landscaped, 120-million-Baht, 26-acrenumerous in Thailand. They grow from nothing to
effort atmospherically enhanced by the presencea metre long in just a year.
of gigantic karsts (limestone crags) standingSimon: So what's the secret of catching
sentinel in the background. It results from drivearapaima?
and devotion in the face of thorny planningStuart: Patience. You put a bait in the water and
problems and natural challenges, not least the kingthey'll look at it for four or five hours and then
cobra that had to be exterminated after it madedecide whether to eat it or swim off. When you
a meal of a few of the 700 fish.catch one, because it's so big and because of its
Armed with five mechanical diggers, Gillham'stemperament, it takes five guys to tackle it.
team embarked on the project in NovemberSimon: Arapaima are said to be very aggressive.
2007 and worked seven days a week, day andStuart: That's right. In the fish farms in Brazil,
night in shifts. Because of the pressure, moreover ten kids a year are killed by arapaima. One
than once, Gillham and his family considered justof only two fish in the world which can swim
filling the land in and going home.backwards (the other is the Wells catfish), it
But now the farm is almost finished. It is worthlaunches itself at you like a battering ram and
seeing, partly because among Gillham's giant shoalsmashes into you with its bony, prehistoric head.
are 10 species of record-breaking super-heavySimon: Everything about this fish seems to be
fish. That's about 60 individual fish. Shedding lightweird. How does it breed?
on these prodigious statistics, Gillham says that heStuart: When the arapaima spawn, the female
filled the lake with vast quantities of natural foodopens her mouth quickly and inhales but does not
before stocking it. Also, he admits, he just boughtswallow her young. Then she grows white tubes
in many readymade giant fish from other farms. Idown her body, and the tubes are what the fish
spoke to Stuart about the art of angling, walkingfeed on for the first month of their life. The
on water and a Jaws-like Amazon monster thatfemales stay close to the surface, the males
inspires obsession.swim around to protect them. We could see a
Simon: What was the inspiration for your resort?female under the surface in October when they
Stuart: I'd fished around the world and stayed atspawned. We sent a Thai boy who works here
fantastic places with awful fishing and at awfulout in the boat to scoop the net alongside this
places with fantastic fishing - you just neverfemale fish and get some babies. As the boy
knew which you would get. There are plenty ofcame alongside, the big male (150 kilos and
lakes in Thailand with big fish in, but they're mostly10-feet-long) attacked the boat, rammed it and
ugly square holes which don't have goodturned it upside down.
surroundings. Some have nice accommodation, butSimon: What did the buy do?
the fish are small. So we said, 'What wouldStuart: What did the boy do? He just ran across
everybody want?' The answer we came up withthe top of the water. I thought only Jesus could
was big fish, nice accommodation and prettywalk on water, but this kid did it. He was out in
gardens. This is a place where a guy can comeseconds.
alone and do little else than have mammothSimon: Sounds a bit implausible, Stuart.
battles with huge fish. Or he can bring his familyStuart: You weren't there. There are some plants
and spend quality time with them in between thegrowing in the water, which presumably supported
fish fights. We're catering for just aboutenough of his weight as he ran.
everybody with an interest in fishing, really.Simon: What's the secret of catching fish in
Simon: And how do you source the fish?general?
Stuart: I've got an agent. He travels all roundStuart: Patience. A few other things are important
Thailand looking for big fish. Strange job he hasin fishing, like location - if you watch a lake and
really, negotiating the price of mammoth fish:you watch it long enough, you will see that there
there's not exactly a huge market for them. Inis a particular fish which keeps showing itself in a
fact, I think I may personally have significantlyparticular place. So then you realize this fish lives in
pushed the price up by stocking my lake. Maybethis little spot. Then it's just down to patience.
we need an options and futures market, whereSimon: Lures or bait?
people can place bets on the price of a 100kgStuart: Lures aren't that effective. Well, they are
giant carp in a year's time. Well, Thailand alreadyin new water when the fish have never been
has more bizarre things - diving with elephantstargetted. Once they have been caught once on a
and shopping with sharks, to mention just two.lure, they are pretty clued-up. So, I would say
Simon: What's the most expensive fish youbait. Dead sea-fish are really good - especially
stock?when the target fish has grown up in a fish farm
Stuart: The most expensive and hardest to find,and has got used to feeding on sea-fish.
believe it or not, is the Siamese carp, which sellsSimon: Is there a particular bait that does it every
for around 1,000 Baht a kilo and is on thetime?
endangered species list now.Stuart: No, but any oily sea fish is good for the
Simon: What is your most popular fish?predators. Carp and Mekong catfish like maize and
Stuart: Certainly, the arapaima are the headlinepaste balls more.
fish that almost everybody comes for. They'reSimon: Many of your fish, like the arapaima, are
the fish that guys travel from all over the worldrare. How conservation-conscious are you?
to try and catch. We have a guy coming hereStuart: All fish are catch-and-release. We have got
who has spent 20 years of his life trying,sea-eagles and kites coming in here every day
on-and-off and unsuccessfully, to catch anfeeding, as well as giant kingfishers. The more the
arapaima. He has just been given six months toresort is becoming established, the more wildlife is
live, due to a terminal illness. So he phoned me upcoming here. My workers are all under strict
and asked how long he should stay here.instructions: no one is allowed to kill anything.
Generally, if you fish here for five days, you'llSimon: Won't the birds kill your fish?
catch an araipama. So we've said nine days andStuart: My fish are safe. My fish would probably
we shall pull out all the stops to catch him hiseat the eagles.
arapaima. This guy's not going to get a return